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Balling Lite Guide


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#1 Psyance

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Posted Jun 30 2011 10:43 AM

Hi All, please find a guide to using Balling Lite below, i hope this will be of use to those who are already using balling and to those who are thinking of starting.

If you do have any questions about balling please feel free to post here or PM me and i'll try to help in anyway i can  :mir02:


What is Balling Lite?

The well-known and popular Balling Lite method is an extremely simple method for providing your aquarium with calcium, magnesium, carbonate hardness and trace elements. To provide an optimal supply for a marine aquarium these substances are added daily by hand or by a dosing pump and is a direct replacement for a calcium reactor.

What water values should you be aiming for when using Balling Lite continuously?

Calcium 380 – 420 mg/litre
Magnesium 1200 – 1350 mg/litre
Alkalinity 6.5 – 8 dkH
Salinity 33 – 35 per mil

How do I mix up my balling salts and to what ratio?

Three 5-litre canisters are to be prepared separately

1st canister:

Dissolve 2 kg of calcium chloride dihydrate in 4 litres of osmosis water and then fill the canister with osmosis water.

! Caution ! Always add the salt to the water - never vice versa!

Then add 25 ml Trace B heavy metal complex  and 25 ml Trace B strontium / barium complex to the canister.

2nd canister:

Dissolve 2 kg of magnesium chloride hexahydrate in 4 litres of osmosis water and then fill the canister with osmosis water.

Nothing else is added to this canister!

3rd canister:

Dissolve 500 g of sodium bicarbonate in 4 litres of osmosis water and then fill the canister with osmosis water.

Then add 25 ml Trace B iodine flour complex to the canister.

!Tip! Use luke warm RO to dissolve the sodium bicarbonate.


A slight discolouration of the solutions is normal and is due to the addition of bioactive substances and trace elements. This has no impact on the quality or stability of the solutions.

After dissolution the solutions can be stored indefinitely.
The three canisters are now ready to be used and can be connected to an appropriate dosing computer.


How much should I be dosing?

This will depend on many factors like stocking levels and lighting used and will of coarse be different for every setup.

Depending on the content of the aquarium the individual solutions now need to be metered manually in order to determine the actual requirements.

Before doing this determine the current water values and make a note of the results.

Example:

50 ml of canister 1 into a 500 litre aquarium.
Value before dosing = 380 mg of calcium. After 2 hours repeat the test the calcium value after the 2nd test is then 400 mg of calcium.

In this example 50 ml of the solution from canister 1 increases the calcium value by 20mg/litre for a 500 litre aquarium.

Now programme the dosing computer to add 7 ml of the solution once a day, i.e. 50 ml of the solution spread over a week.

After a week measure the calcium value again and note it has only risen to 390 mg/litre, although in a pure arithmetic sense this should have risen to 400 mg/litre.

This method determines the actual loss of calcium in the system that is to be compensated. In some cases this actual loss may differ significantly from the calculated loss as a result of growth or chemical precipitation!

You can now easily adapt the dosage level by increasing the value by 3 ml per day as already calculated. 50 ml = + 20 mg / 7 days = 7 ml In order to obtain + 30 mg therefore 75 ml / 7 days = 10 ml must be added.

Using this simple 3-part calculation you can easily adjust each of your desired values and set an automatic dosing schedule in just a few days.

A daily inspection of the calcium (Ca TEST), magnesium (Mg test) and dKH values (KH test) is to be conducted at the start and the dosing quantity adapted on the device if necessary.

After no more than 2 weeks you will have determined the specific requirements for your aquarium and set the dosing unit accordingly.


Do I need to add any other minerals or trace elements?

Mineral salts can be added by hand, however this is not essential with regular waterchanges of 10% per week, as a good branded mineral salt will adequately cover the mineral salt requirements.

Relinquishment of the mineral salt in the Balling light method can be explained not only as a result of the regular water exchange, but also as a result of the generally too-high quantity of dissolved trace elements in our aquariums.
Therefore, the often mentioned 'ion displacement' factor is only applicable based on theoretical consideration of the Balling method.

The regular exchange of water helps your system to dilute unwanted substances and it makes it very easy to adjust and control salinity levels.

Edited by Psyance, 30 June 2011 - 12:21 PM.

Thanks, Bren & Claire."The sea monkey has my money" Posted ImagePosted Image Posted Image

#2 zimajays

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Posted Jun 30 2011 10:54 AM

Nice one.  I have sticked it!


Alex
ps I am a girl!!

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#3 A.T 09

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Posted Jun 30 2011 10:57 AM

hi....

this looks and sounds very good.....
but its me i dont understand any off it really...im trying..lol
Cheers Alan

#4 Psyance

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Posted Jun 30 2011 11:21 AM

View PostA.T 09, on 30 June 2011 - 10:57 AM, said:

hi....

this looks and sounds very good.....
but its me i dont understand any off it really...im trying..lol
Hi Alan, tbh when I first started using balling it bamboozled me completely but it is really quite simple.
All you are doing is adding the three main elements that hard corals use up quickly, once you have sorted out your dosing (the hard bit) and input this into the doser all you need to do is test your water regularly to make sure everything is fine and fill the containers once they empty.
If you do have any questions feel free to contact me :mir02:

Edited by Psyance, 30 June 2011 - 11:23 AM.

Thanks, Bren & Claire."The sea monkey has my money" Posted ImagePosted Image Posted Image

#5 Marksfish

Posted Jun 30 2011 11:31 AM

I have seen a RSM130 using this system and the user set it up quite simply. You can buy the dosing pumps off the bay, just look under dosing pumps and you will find loads of ex health service devices which can be used. The tank I saw, the owner purchased a 3 channel pump with timers from HK for about £70 all in. It is never going to be an easy system to get to grips with (I don't think) and certainly not heap as the potions to go with it can be expensive, but if it saves on dosing buffers all the time, it is something I may consider when I find out more about it (read get a good deal on the equipment :)). Perhaps if we get enough interest, we could get a bulk buy from a sponsor?

Mark
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#6 A.T 09

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Posted Jun 30 2011 12:01 PM

View PostPsyance, on 30 June 2011 - 11:21 AM, said:

Hi Alan, tbh when I first started using balling it bamboozled me completely but it is really quite simple.
All you are doing is adding the three main elements that hard corals use up quickly, once you have sorted out your dosing (the hard bit) and input this into the doser all you need to do is test your water regularly to make sure everything is fine and fill the containers once they empty.
If you do have any questions feel free to contact me :mir02:


hi..
not sure at the moment if im going down that road...ive only got softies in my tank really...
but thanks alot..plus i will keep it in mind...cheers psyance...
Cheers Alan

#7 a24udi

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Posted Jun 30 2011 12:31 PM

Just like to add some info:

Pros
Get rid of the calcium reactor and Kalk stirrer, colours of the corals are awesome, polyp extentions of the corals are awesome, my LPS & SPS have all shown an improvement from using this product!

Not so good
Need to buy a dosing unit and salts (the salts are the minerals for calcium, magnesium and sodium) once you work out what you need in the tank the doser will do the rest!

Thanks Glen My tank thread
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#8 Marksfish

Posted Jun 30 2011 12:44 PM

Any chance of someone doing a diary of the tank and how it reacts to the system? Probably a bit late now for those already doing so, but an idea for anyone considering? Pictures speak a lot more than words :).

Thought about it, but with trying to get the scrubber working properly became my priority. This has incentivised me to look a gain though.

Mark
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#9 a24udi

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Posted Jun 30 2011 12:59 PM

Keep an eye on my tank thread you will see plenty of pics of the tank before and now you will see them with the balling working, the colours and polyp extensions are what I'm seeing!

Thanks Glen My tank thread
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#10 Marksfish

Posted Jul 02 2011 01:43 PM

Okay, i've virtually decided to give this a go now :) Found the 3 channel controller (I know if you buy cheap you buy twice, but there may not be a market for the 2nd hand kit). I have also found a container which consists of 3x 1.5l sealed units for the salts with nrv's on, so will fit easily in my cabinet. Will order the controller tomorrow night, just need to find the right salts now (pops off to sponsors request area), then I can start a new thread :)

Mark
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